Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir — Type Formula
A golden, honeyed haze of benzoin, tonka and vanilla laced with labdanum and warm balsams.
Francis Kurkdjian distilled the idea of an evening amber into a rich, resinous benzoin-tonka-vanilla accord with almost no top note distraction. This type captures the labdanum-tolu-peru balsam heart and the enveloping vanilla-coumarin warmth that made it a modern amber benchmark.
Accord skeleton
Composition (25 materials · type reconstruction · amounts locked)
| # | Material | CAS | Amount |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Bergamot Oil | 8007-75-8 | 9.8% 🔒 |
| 2 | Benzoin Siam Resinoid | -- | 7.6% 🔒 |
| 3 | Tonka Bean Absolute | 8046-22-8 | 6.1% 🔒 |
| 4 | Coumarin | 91-64-5 | 5.3% 🔒 |
| 5 | Vanillin | 121-33-5 | 4.7% 🔒 |
| 6 | Ethyl Vanillin | 121-32-4 | 3.9% 🔒 |
| 7 | Vanilla Absolute | 8024-06-4 | 3.2% 🔒 |
| 8 | Labdanum Resinoid | 8016-26-0 | 2.6% 🔒 |
| 9 | Tolu Balsam Resinoid | 9000-64-0 | 2.1% 🔒 |
| 10 | Peru Balsam Oil | 8007-00-9 | 1.8% 🔒 |
| 11 | Styrax Resinoid | 8046-19-3 | 1.4% 🔒 |
| 12 | Benzyl Benzoate | 120-51-4 | 1.1% 🔒 |
| 13 | Benzyl Cinnamate | 103-41-3 | 0.9% 🔒 |
| 14 | Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde | 122-40-7 | 0.7% 🔒 |
| 15 | Sclareolide | 564-20-5 | 0.5% 🔒 |
| 16 | Ambroxan | 6790-58-5 | 0.4% 🔒 |
| 17 | Iso E Super | 54464-57-2 | 0.3% 🔒 |
| 18 | Cedarwood Virginia Oil | 8000-27-9 | 0.2% 🔒 |
| 19 | Patchouli Oil | 8014-09-3 | 12.4% 🔒 |
| 20 | Sandalwood Oil | 8006-87-9 | 9.8% 🔒 |
| 21 | Cashmeran | 33704-61-9 | 7.6% 🔒 |
| 22 | Ethyl Maltol | 4940-11-8 | 6.1% 🔒 |
| 23 | Galaxolide | 1222-05-5 | 5.3% 🔒 |
| 24 | Ethylene Brassylate | 105-95-3 | 4.7% 🔒 |
| 25 | Opoponax Resinoid | -- | 3.9% 🔒 |
— = captive material without a public CAS (a substitution is provided in the full spec). Restricted allergens are IFRA-flagged in the paid spec.
What you get
Free — the complete material list, CAS numbers and accord breakdown above. Study the architecture before you spend a cent.
Unlock ($19.99) — exact percentages, a dilution guide, a batch calculator (enter your grams → get every weight), IFRA-compliant substitutions, and your downloadable master spec.
Three ways to wear it
- Build it — source the raw materials and mix from the full spec.
- Shortcut it — use the matched ready concentrate, just add alcohol (coming soon).
- Smell it first — try a finished scent before sourcing dozens of ingredients. See our oil range →
An educational type specification inspired by the composition of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir. OLFX is not affiliated with or endorsed by the original house. This is a written recipe / analysis, not a physical sample. Reformulate to your market’s IFRA category before use.
[ OLFACTORY PYRAMID ]
[ FORMAT SYSTEM ]
OIL ROLL-ON TECHNOLOGY
OLFx perfume oil offers maximum longevity and deep scent development with no alcohol bite. Applied directly to your pulse points, it melts into the skin, creating an intimate, long-lasting trail.
[+] SHIPPING & RETURNS
Processing: Orders ship within 1-2 business days of confirmation.
Shipping: Tracked U.S. delivery, typically 3-7 business days.
Returns: Unopened items may be returned within 30 days. For hygiene reasons, opened fragrances are non-returnable.
[+] OIL FAQ
> What is an Oil Roll-on? An alcohol-free oil concentrate. It offers long-lasting, more intimate wear.
> How do I apply it? Use the roll-on applicator on your pulse points: wrists, neck, behind the ears, inner elbows.
> How long does it last? Depending on skin type and the fragrance structure, 8-24 hours on skin.