Serge Lutens Chergui — Type Formula
A honeyed hay-and-tobacco warmth blowing in like a Saharan desert wind.
Sweet tobacco, hay, and syrupy honey coil around iris and incense. The composition is enveloping and golden, a spiced amber that feels like sunlit dune sand.
Accord skeleton
Composition (24 materials · type reconstruction · amounts locked)
| # | Material | CAS | Amount |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tobacco absolute | 8037-19-2 | 9.8% 🔒 |
| 2 | Hay absolute (coumarin-rich) | 8022-15-9 | 7.6% 🔒 |
| 3 | Honey absolute | 8028-66-8 | 6.1% 🔒 |
| 4 | Coumarin | 91-64-5 | 5.3% 🔒 |
| 5 | Iris (orris) butter | 8002-73-1 | 4.7% 🔒 |
| 6 | Labdanum absolute | 8016-26-0 | 3.9% 🔒 |
| 7 | Benzoin resinoid (Siam) | 9000-05-9 | 3.2% 🔒 |
| 8 | Vanillin | 121-33-5 | 2.6% 🔒 |
| 9 | Musk ambrette (phenylacetaldehyde honey) | 122-78-1 | 2.1% 🔒 |
| 10 | Frankincense (olibanum) oil | 8016-36-2 | 1.8% 🔒 |
| 11 | Sandalwood oil (Santalum album) | 8006-87-9 | 1.4% 🔒 |
| 12 | Rose absolute (Rosa damascena) | 8007-01-0 | 1.1% 🔒 |
| 13 | Ambroxan | 6790-58-5 | 0.9% 🔒 |
| 14 | Tonka bean absolute | 8046-22-8 | 0.7% 🔒 |
| 15 | Cistus (labdanum) oil | 8016-26-0 | 0.5% 🔒 |
| 16 | Beta-ionone | 14901-07-6 | 0.4% 🔒 |
| 17 | Guaiacol | 90-05-1 | 0.3% 🔒 |
| 18 | Immortelle (helichrysum) absolute | 90045-56-0 | 0.2% 🔒 |
| 19 | Ethyl maltol | 4940-11-8 | 12.4% 🔒 |
| 20 | Cedarwood oil (Virginia) | 8000-27-9 | 9.8% 🔒 |
| 21 | Patchouli oil | 8014-09-3 | 7.6% 🔒 |
| 22 | Clove bud oil | 8000-34-8 | 6.1% 🔒 |
| 23 | Galaxolide | 1222-05-5 | 5.3% 🔒 |
| 24 | Phenylacetic acid | 103-82-2 | 4.7% 🔒 |
— = captive material without a public CAS (a substitution is provided in the full spec). Restricted allergens are IFRA-flagged in the paid spec.
What you get
Free — the complete material list, CAS numbers and accord breakdown above. Study the architecture before you spend a cent.
Unlock ($19.99) — exact percentages, a dilution guide, a batch calculator (enter your grams → get every weight), IFRA-compliant substitutions, and your downloadable master spec.
Three ways to wear it
- Build it — source the raw materials and mix from the full spec.
- Shortcut it — use the matched ready concentrate, just add alcohol (coming soon).
- Smell it first — try a finished scent before sourcing dozens of ingredients. See our oil range →
An educational type specification inspired by the composition of Serge Lutens Chergui. OLFX is not affiliated with or endorsed by the original house. This is a written recipe / analysis, not a physical sample. Reformulate to your market’s IFRA category before use.
[ OLFACTORY PYRAMID ]
[ FORMAT SYSTEM ]
OIL ROLL-ON TECHNOLOGY
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> How long does it last? Depending on skin type and the fragrance structure, 8-24 hours on skin.